| Iron Maiden |
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Manufacturer |
Stern |
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Date of manufacture |
October, 1981 |
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Model number |
151 |
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Estimated production |
Approximately 700 |
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Serial number |
1099 |
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Special features, milestones or trivia |
Dual backglasses |
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Price guide price range |
$200-775 |
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Jump to Pictures ·Features & Specifications ·Resources · Comments |
| Pictures |
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Click on thumbnails for a bigger view |
| Features and Specifications |
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| Resources |
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Flyer |
- |
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Manual |
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Schematic |
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ROM images |
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WAV files |
n/a |
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Rule sheet |
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Repair tips |
Correct
lamp matrix |
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S/I card scans |
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Repro parts |
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| Note: many of the above links will take you off this site. Thanks to
all the other
pinball enthusiasts who have provided this information for us all to
share. If you have links to fill in any missing information below, please let
me know.
Check out my arcade links page for more pinball links on the web. |
| Comments |
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I picked this up from eBay in the summer of 2000. The game was finally delivered in March of 2001, but that's another story. It was received more or less working, but the CPU wouldn't come out of reset. I also noted that many of the Molex pins on the power supply board were burnt, and that a number of sloppy repairs had been made in the past. Some of the burnt pins were bypassed with wires soldered directly to the board. I replaced two of the three pin housings and all of the contacts that had overheated. I use Molex Trifurcon contacts as they can handle more current than the standard-issue contacts - this seems to work fine for home use. Stern used circuit boards very similar to the Bally machines of the same period. The solenoid driver board is functionally identical to that used in all Stern games of those years, as well as over 50 different Bally pinball machines. I always replace the large filter capacitor at the input to the 5 volt regulator. They're over 20 years old now, so if they haven't dried out already, they won't last long. I also add a small value disc capacitor on the output of the 5 volt regulator. This was part of a Bally service bulletin, apparently to prevent high-frequency oscillation of the output. And of course, the most important electronic modification is to remove the nicad battery from the CPU board. When I got this game, a new nicad had been mounted off the CPU card so I didn't have to do anything else. So with the power straightened out, the game would complete the reset sequence, but when solenoids would activate, the game would randomly reset. After double-checking the work I did on the power, it turned out to be the slam switch on the side of the cabinet. That just left a few misadjusted contacts and the game is now working.
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